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Cars Under Construction. 

 The 72 McLaren W.I.P. photos, these photos show the original metal parts, many of these are now re-engineered and cast in resin (the exhaust and turbo system). Much of the suspension has also been re-engineered and still needs to be cast in metal. 

 1969 Andretti Hawk.

 Late 50's early 60's fuel tank.

 Sumar spl.

 A few new projects, 1965 Dan Gurney Lotus.

 Konstant Hot spl.

 1969 STP Super Wedge

1970 McLaren M15.

 1970 Scorpion.

 1970 Colt.

 1970  Patrick Petroleum Spl.

 1935 Miller.

 Chet Miller's Offy Miller.

 Art Malone's 1963 Novi

 1964 Novi

 Peter Revson's 71 McLaren.

 Mark Donohue's 71 McLaren.

 Penske PC7 conversion.

 1971 McLaren.

 Penske pc7

 1977 Gurney Eagle

 1911 Marmon Wasp.

A.J. Foyt's 1965 Re- Built Lotus 34.

 65 Foyt

 65 Foyt

 1963 Mickey Thompson

 1963 Mickey Thompson

 1970 McNamera , Mario Andretti

 1971 McNamara, Mario Andretti.

 1963 Novi.

 1963 Novi.

 1/20th,1/12th and 1/8th scale STP Turbines.


 No garage is complete without tools , here are some I have found to be very useful.

 This is Waldron Model Products sub miniature punch and die set used for making rivets, far superior to white glue and a hypo needle. Rivets are punched out of sheet styrene then positioned and secured with an application of testors liquid cement and weld on 3 , applied with a paint brush . Sold by Roll Models.

 This is Tamiya's panel scriber , blades can be resharpened and there is a spare blade in the handle. I have found this to be the best scriber I have tried to date.

 These are cuticle scissors that I use to cut out vac formed windscreens, one straight and one curved, the curved ones are used for cutting around curved areas of the windscreens , much easier to use than straight scissors.

 This is a miniature drill bit set, available at better hobby shops, most hardware stores do not carry sizes under 1/16th.

 This is Hypo watch crystal cement, useful for gluing on windscreens. Available from Micro Mark.


 Reference Material

 Early Ford 4 cam.

 Early Ford 4 cam.

 Ford motor., pre Foyt.

 Ford motor, pre Foyt.

 BRM H16

 BRM H16


















Mold making and resin casting


Mold making, resin casting and vacuforming equipment, this section will cover the equipment, the use of these pieces will be covered later.


The vacuum tank and pump are used to pull air out of the rubber before it is used to make a mold. The vacuum tank is made from large threaded plastic pipe from the plumbing dept. at Lowes. It consists two pieces that are threaded together to make the tank and a plug that threads into the bottom, all threads are sealed with silicone to make them airtite. The tank assembly is then placed in a wooden base

 The Vacuum pump is a Dayton 1/3hp pump.

 The Vacuum tank lid is made from 1/4 inch Plexiglass, the rubber gasket was cut to size to fit the top of the vacuum tank.

 Scale used for mixing rubber and activator.

 Rubber and activator from Silicones inc. 1-800-533-8709            Rubber is   GI-1000

 Mixing containers for rubber and activator.

 Here is the completed vacuum system.

 The casting tank is made from a pressurized paint tank from Sears. This is used to crush air bubbles in the resin while it sets up.

 Preasure tank valve assembly, this consists of an inlet valve and a release valve, also allows for the use of multiple tanks at the same time.

 A 4hp compressor with regulator that I attach to the pressure tank.

 Vagabond 36xxx slow resin, Vagabond  1-760-782-3136. Price Driscoll Ultra 4 mold release 1-800-442-3575, laytex gloves.

The pouring box,  used to catch excess resin that spills from a mold after filling it.

 Lots of rubber bands for holding "split molds" together.

 An overview of part of my resin casting bench.

 For making vacuformed winscreens, I start with a piece of circuit board / box from Radio Shack and cut a round hole in one end t accept the hose from my shop vac .

 Vacuform box with shop vac hose in place.

 Jig designed to hold plastic for vacu forming. The plastic sheet is placed in the window that is cut into the metal base plate (bottom piece) and and the wood piece (upper piece) and then clamped together.

 Vacuform box and jig.

 Types of molds


 The split mold is a one piece mold, good for wheels, tires and like items.

 Cavity mold, good for windshield bucks.

 The cluster mold is basically a lot of cavity molds that occupy the same mold, good for small parts and cutting down on the number of molds one would have to make if the parts were molded separately.

 The plug mold is a cavity mold with a vented plug, good for bodies.

 The gravity feed mold is a two part mold, the resin enters from the bottom and forces air out the top through a vent. A great mold for bodies and making parts with less noticeable flash and mold seam lines. A more labor intensive mold to make.

 Making molds


 I will start this section discussing split, cluster and cavity molds, plug molds and gravity feed molds will be added later as they are more envolved.In this photo is the master for a tire mold which I will use with a split mold. Notice that the center of the tire has been filled with a thin piece of sheet styrene and a sprue added to the bottom of the tire.

 Here parts have been glued to a flat surface and a cluster mold will be made from them.

 This is the clay I use for mold making. Most importantly it does not react with the krylon primer I use on many parts and is easily removed from a mold. Comes in assorted colors for your sculpting pleasure.

 Here clay is rolled out to make the base for the split and cavity molds. The two rods are used to keep the clay at a uniform thickness as it is rolled out.

 The tire is now set into the clay , make sure it does not lean to one side or another so no air will be trapped when the rubber is poured.

 The mold box is made from aluminum roof flashing , available at Lowes.

 Here I have used modeling clay to make the mold box for the cluster mold.

 Here a cavity mold will be used to make a windshield buck for vacu forming windshields.

 The box is fashioned the same as a split mold but shaped more for the part that is being molded.

Mixing and pouring rubber.


 Mix the rubber and activator according to the instructions.


 The first thing to remember is that what ever level you fill your mixing container to with rubber, that when it is placed under vacuum , the level of rubber in the container will rise to at least double what you originally put in. Be sure to leave room for this expansion. The following drawings are to give you some idea how the levels change while pulling air from the rubber with the vacuum tank.

 Container with rubber before vacuum is applied.

 Rubber rises as vacuum is applied.

 As the air is pulled from the rubber, the level in the container will drop but the surface of the rubber will continue to bubble.

 When the vacuum is removed, the rubber will drop to just under its original level.

 This cap is screwed on or off to control the vacuum in the tank . I start the pump with this unscrewed, place the lid on the tank and put the cap on and begin to tighten to establish the vacuum. Should the rubber begin to overflow its container , unscrew the cap until it recedes

 Here the air can be seen being pulled from the rubber.

 Here the split mold is being poured, pour slowly and from one side to allow the air to escape as the rubber fills the mold.

 Here the cluster mold is poured.

 Opening the molds

 After removing the mold box and clay, start to open the mold with an exacto blade starting at the spru and in this case cutting against the master and to the outside of the mold, repeat on the ther side of the mold and remove the master.

 Opening the cluster and cavity molds is much easier, just remove the mold box's and clay and pull the mold off or pop the part out.

Pouring resin


 For resin casting I use vagabond XXXSLOW  resin. This resin is a slower setting resin (it only has a 2-3 min. working time before it begins to set up , less in warm weather but it allows more working time than most resins) and also a high viscosity that allows it to flow easily through out the mold and aids in letting air bubbles escape the mold. For mold release I like to use Price Driscoll's ultra 4 urethane parafilm. Not all mold releases are created equal, some will leave an orange peel pattern on the mold which will be transferred to the casting, others are nearly impossible to clean from the casting making painting nearly impossible.

 Here the molds are lightly sprayed with mold release as well as the plastic used for the cluster mold, note the rubber band used to hold the split mold together to prevent resin from leaking out and help the mold retain its shape.

 After pouring equal amounts of parts A and B resin into a mixing container , BE SURE TO THOROUGHLY MIX BEFORE POURING INTO MOLDS !!!  failure to do so will result in a messy mold that is nearly impossible to clean out.

 Here the molds are filled with resin, notice how the cluster mold is enclosed between two pieces of plastic and secured with rubber bands. The molds are now placed in the pressure tank and the lid is secured and the tank pressurized to between 40 and 50 psi. I like to leave the molds in the tank for at least 45min